In Defense of Food

In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto by Michael Pollan is a deeply researched and compelling examination of how modern society lost its way when it comes to eating, and how individuals can reclaim control of their health by abandoning processed food culture and returning to real, traditional foods. Pollan argues that the contemporary Western diet—dominated by refined grains, added sugars, highly processed oils, chemical additives, factory-farmed animal products, and fast food—has produced an epidemic of chronic illnesses such as diabetes, heart disease, obesity, cancer, and autoimmune disorders. He contends that the paradox of modern life is that people know more about nutrients than ever, yet have never been more confused about what to eat or more unhealthy. We have traded home cooking and cultural traditions for industrial convenience and scientific reductionism, and the results have been disastrous.

Pollan’s core argument is expressed in a phrase that has become famous: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” This simple manifesto counters decades of complicated dietary advice and scientific claims that have prioritized nutrients over food, industry profits over public health, and marketing slogans over common sense. Pollan dismantles the ideology of nutritionism, exposes the flaws and biases in food science, critiques the political ties between government and agribusiness, and offers a practical roadmap to restore a healthier, more joyful relationship with food.

The Rise of Nutritionism

Pollan begins with an exploration of nutritionism, a belief system that dominates the way modern societies think about food. Nutritionism reduces food to its nutrient components—carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and phytochemicals—and assumes that the value of a food lies in the presence or absence of these individual parts rather than in the integrity of the whole food itself. Pollan argues that nutritionism is problematic for several reasons.

First, nutritionism presumes that scientists fully understand how nutrients work in the human body and how they interact with one another. But scientific history shows the opposite. For example, when researchers in the 20th century attempted to isolate the benefits of whole grains by refining wheat and adding back synthetic vitamins, they discovered that these fortified products still failed to replicate the health benefits of real whole wheat. It later became clear that whole grains include fibers, oils, enzymes, and phytonutrients—compounds not fully understood or even identified—that interact synergistically. Nutritional science struggles to account for this complex biological ecosystem.

Second, nutritionism has elevated good nutrients and demonized bad nutrients, leading to fads and confusion. For decades fat was the enemy, and low-fat products dominated grocery stores; yet heart disease and obesity only increased. When fat was removed, sugar was added, and refined carbohydrates replaced natural fats, creating highly addictive but nutritionally empty foods. Later carbohydrates became the villain, spawning high-protein diets like Atkins and keto. Omega-6 seed oils were once celebrated as heart-healthy replacements for butter, only to later be linked to inflammation.

Pollan argues that the constant flip-flopping reveals the instability of nutrition science and strengthens food companies who profit from reformulating and rebranding ingredients. He points to absurd examples ...